What is a wave?
Waves are created by wind energy moving across the ocean, causing water to move in a circular motion. This results in a pattern of larger and smaller waves, where larger waves are called sets and smaller ones are lulls. The time between wave crests is known as the wave period, measured in seconds.
- Wind Strength: Stronger winds create bigger swells
- Wind Direction: Winds must push waves toward the beach. Headlands and reefs can block waves from reaching the shore
- Wind Duration (Fetch): The distance over which the wind blows affects wave size. A larger fetch results in bigger and cleaner surf
Types of Breaking Waves
Plunging (Dumping) Waves
These create a hollow tube (the 'barrel') when they break and can be very dangerous, often dumping people onto shallow sandbanks or reefs
Spilling (Rolling) Waves
Found on flat shorelines, these waves break onto the wave face itself, making them generally safer for swimming
Surging Waves
These may not break as they approach the shore due to deep water. Common around rock platforms, they can be dangerous as they may knock people over and drag them into deeper water